The best way to discover a country is to taste its food. That’s why we offer you this simple guide for traveling, and eating, in Trebinje. All you need is good will and an appetite. — Slobodan Vulešević

Herzegovina has to be experienced. It is a rocky region where all earthly tastes and smells are sublime… the ones from the stone as well as those from the food. Everything earthly is at the tip of your fingers here, the smell of wholesome, slow food that still tastes like it came straight from the land. And that’s because it did. Herzegovina is somewhat of a mystery, crafted by some other-earthly will that made it possible for so many treasures to emerge from such a stony terrain.

The traditional way of producing and preparing food is slow and often times considered tedious.

But in Trebinje its preparation is a labor of love. Slow food allows one to enjoy superb quality food at the pace nature intended it. This concept fits well with the people and the place. We love to prepare our food slowly, ensuring its quality and purity. We also love to eat and drink…and to take it slow. There is no better place to unplug and indulge oneself in the better things in life than here.

So let’s get started with some basic “directions.”

Honey

The legend of Zeus claims he was born in a cave where bees fed him with honey. The Roman poet Virgilio called bees the breath of life. In Trebinje it’s a way of life for many. As part of the  long-term sustainable development of this region, honey production is one direction we are most certainly headed. If you want to head in this direction you’ll soon understand the essence of the land of Herzegovina where there are over 100 types of endemic and medicinal plants. You can pick them if you like, but the bees have taken care of that and now offer you their honey. We offer you the chance to taste it, and even take it home with you! If you’re really feeling up for it you can work with us at the beehives and learn for yourself how bees make honey.

Cheese

Škripavac is a special cheese made in this region. Its name literally means the squeaky one…and for good reason. The cheese, škripavac, literally squeaks when eaten. Now this may not sound entirely enticing but the squeak of the cheese not only makes eating it fun but gives one the sensation of tasting a sound. Think about it, feeling a sound! This delicious, light, white cheese is made from an ancient recipe with unpasteurized milk from cows that graze on the same plants as the bees who make our honey. Ever heard of honey cheese? We offer that too!

Poljak bean

First take a look at the photo. It looks like little pebbles, doesn’t it? No, they aren’t pebbles but beans. And for Herzegovina they are a magical bean because they mirror its image. This is a special type of bean you can only try if you come with us. This is the true definition of Slow Food. Look it up on www.slowfood.com and you’ll see that you’re heading in the right direction. It’s very important to begin each meal right. And just to make sure you do, we’ll start things off with some local grappa and a bit of homegrown tomatoes with a touch of sea salt.

By then the poljak beans should be done. This very well may turn out to be the highlight of your trip. Its high protein content and our special cooking methods make this a bean dish truly extraordinary. One can of course find this in a few select restaurants in town, but the best place to try poljak bean is in the villages where they are grown and you can also pick spring onions from the garden next to you to complement the beans.

If you’d like arrange village visits in and around Trebinje to taste the honey and cheese, we recommend the Centar za razvoj Hercegovine (Center for the Development of Herzegovina) +387 65 589 394; [email protected]. They are a small group who has for the past decade actively worked to improve the standard and quality of rural products such as honey, cheese and the poljak bean in Trebinje as well as throughout Herzegovina. As a non-governmental organization they formed the Slow Food Convivium Trebinje, the first of its kind in Bosnia and Herzegovina. They are the local leaders in rural development and we offer a unique gastronomical and agro-tourism program.

There is, of course, much more to eat than just honey, cheese and beans in Trebinje.

Trebinje is well known for its exceptional quality of meats, fish, fruits and vegetables. Lamb and veal are a specialty here where folks come from afar to sample our offerings. We take our time and prepare the succulent meats with great care. You’ll know with the first bite. Eating is never complete without a good drink. And that’s where Trebinje’s fine wines come into play. White with your fish or a ruby red with your meat, you won’t be let down by the taste, quality or price