Though the allure of Međugorje is based in mystery, this town – about 25 kilometers south and west of Mostar – is no secret to faithful Catholics the world over. The story of an apparition of the Virgin Mary (to the consternation of the then Yugoslav officials) in the hills between Međugorje and Bijakovići has made this once quiet village in Herzegovina the most-visited site in the country and the second-largest Catholic pilgrimage destination in the world. As the legend goes, Mother Mary appeared to six teenagers on 24 June 1981.

Though skepticism followed their account, the Queen of Peace appeared again and again and soon made believers out of even the most vocal critics. Some 15 million have visited since. But, when it comes to faith, it seems nothing is simple. Controversy continues to swirl around the legitimacy of the visions. In fact, the Pope has not recognized Međugorje as an official pilgrimage site.

With or without the Pope’s official nod though, the faithful and curious have made this a bona fide, international tourism destination.

Visitors can expect much better than usual infrastructure compared to many locales in Bosnia and Herzegovina. Restaurants and hotels – as well as a plethora of religious-kitsch vendors – happily cater to the needs of redemption seekers by the busload. But, put bluntly, inviting the world to visit one’s village has a byproduct: Međugorje is quite commercialized.

The ability to receive tens of thousands of visitors at a time means souvenirs (crosses, crucifixes, rosaries, statues, pictures, posters, and jewelry) by the boatload as well as parking lots full of cars, buses, and people, people, and more people … especially in the summer. The upside: it is easy to find Internet, information, guides in many languages, and some of the best general service in the country. Downside: if you travel in the summer, as many do, be aware that you will not be alone.

Having said that, there are many people who come here not for the kitsch but for the Lord.

When you arrive, you’ll see more than a few lost in prayer and hoping for spiritual guidance for themselves and their loved ones. They make their way to the blue cross marking Apparition Hill – many barefoot – where the Virgin Mary was seen thirty years ago. The footpath to Mount Križevac, or Cross Mountain, is lined with Stations of the Cross and has been trodden upon by folks from across the planet. The cross was erected in 1934. The main Church of St James is in the middle of town. Even when there is no Mass, which is rare because there are several everyday, the square around the church will be filled with people sitting and praying. As one would imagine, all Catholic holidays are celebrated with special vigor.